How to Build a Wardrobe: A Step-by-Step Guide

Phrany
How to Build a Wardrobe: A Step-by-Step Guide

If you want the crisp, built-in look with doors that close softly, consistent 2–3 mm reveals, and rock-solid internals, this guide walks you through the full process—from the first measurements to scribed fillers and final QC. You’ll finish with a wardrobe that’s plumb, level, square, and anchored safely.

  • Difficulty: Intermediate (comfortable with accurate measuring, cutting, and assembly)
  • Time: 1–3 days depending on size, finish, and whether panels are factory-prepped
  • Best for: Built-in wardrobes (wall-to-wall or wall-to-gable). Notes for freestanding included.

What you’ll achieve:

  • Plumb, level, square carcass modules with full back panels
  • Aligned doors/drawers with 2–3 mm reveals and tuned soft-close hardware
  • Hanging rails that don’t sag under typical loads
  • Tight, scribed fillers and trims with ≤2 mm finished gaps
  • A clean, verifiable post-install QC checklist

Before you begin

  • Prerequisites: Final opening measurements (width/height/depth) with notes on out-of-plumb/square, a basic layout (module widths, internals), door type (hinged or sliding), and any lighting plan.
  • Safety: Eye and ear protection, dust control (especially for MDF), and safe handling of large panels. Coordinate any integrated lighting with a licensed electrician.

Tools

  • Track saw or circular saw + straightedge (table saw helps)
  • Drill/driver; pocket hole jig or confirmat drill; shelf-pin jig (32 mm is helpful)
  • Router with flush trim/chamfer bits; 35 mm hinge boring bit with depth stop
  • Laser level and long spirit level; squares; clamps; shims
  • Scribing tools: compass, scribe block, block plane, oscillating multi-tool
  • Stud finder; masonry/wood anchors as required; chisels

Materials (typical)

  • Carcass: 18 mm sheet goods (plywood, melamine-faced chipboard, or MDF)
  • Back panels: 6–9 mm sheet (melamine/ply/MDF)
  • Base/toe-kick plinth: 18 mm strips or cabinet feet
  • Fillers/trims: 18 mm matching material or paint-grade stock
  • Doors: 18–22 mm slab or five-piece; edgebanded as needed
  • Hardware: 110° soft-close concealed hinges, full-extension slides, shelf pins, hanging rails and sockets, anti-tip brackets, handles/knobs
  • Finishes: Edgebanding, paint/varnish, caulk

Evidence-backed notes:

Step 1 — Site survey and design

  1. Measure the opening at multiple points.
  • Width: at floor, mid-height, and ceiling
  • Height: at left and right
  • Depth: at both ends
  • Note any wall/ceiling bowing and floor out-of-level conditions.
  1. Decide built-in vs. freestanding.
  • Built-in maximizes space and requires a leveling plinth, wall anchoring, and scribed fillers.
  • Freestanding is movable, but you should still install anti-tip anchors.
  1. Select sheet goods.
  • 18 mm plywood: lighter than MDF with better screw holding and good in humid climates.
  • 18 mm melamine (MFC): cost-effective and consistent; join with confirmat screws/cams.
  • 18 mm MDF: great paint finish (especially for shaker doors), heavier and weaker screw holding; seal edges.
  • Back panels: 6–9 mm full backs greatly increase racking resistance and help square the carcass.
  • Emissions/compliance: In the U.S., composite wood must meet TSCA Title VI limits (e.g., HWPW ≤0.05 ppm formaldehyde). See the EPA TSCA Title VI overview (2018–2019 updates).
  1. Plan module widths and fillers.
  • Common widths: 400, 450, 500, 600 mm to fit hardware and optimize cutting.
  • Leave 10–20 mm total side scribe space; 10–30 mm ceiling scribe.
  • Consider the 32 mm system for shelf pins and hinge plate positions.
  1. Produce a cut list and hardware schedule.
  • Include panel sizes, edging specs, and drilling patterns (for factory prep).
  • If using undermount slides, size the drawer box precisely to your runner system.

Checkpoint: You should now have a measured plan, material choices, module widths, and a complete cut list with hardware quantities.

Step 2 — Build a dead-level plinth (base)

A level base prevents racking and makes everything easier to align.

  1. Layout and cut the plinth.
  • Use 18 mm strips or a ladder frame of stable material. Aim for a footprint 50–80 mm smaller in depth than the carcass to allow a toe-kick.
  1. Level and anchor.
  • Set shims and adjust until level front-to-back and left-to-right—verify with a laser.
  • Anchor to the floor (where allowed) and the back wall. Stabilization concepts similar to those used for islands are outlined by Fine Homebuilding; see their write-up on tip-proofing cabinetry on concrete floors (2022).
  1. Mark reference lines.
  • Project a level line on the wall to guide carcass top/bottom positions.

Pro tip: Don’t rely on the base of the carcass to correct floor errors. A well-built plinth is your “foundation.”

Checkpoint: Laser and long level show the plinth is dead level in both axes with solid anchoring.

Step 3 — Fabricate carcass modules

  1. Cut panels square and to size.
  • Use a track saw with rail or a table saw with a reliable fence. Label every part.
  1. Joinery options.
  • Melamine/MFC: Confirmat screws or cam fittings. Use the correct two-step pilot drill for your screw size (e.g., 7×50 mm). Pilot diameters vary by brand—follow the screw manufacturer’s datasheet.
  • Plywood: Pocket screws plus glue, or dados/rabbets for increased rigidity.
  • MDF: Glue and mechanical fasteners; seal exposed edges.
  1. Install fixed shelves and full backs.
  • Fixed shelves add rigidity; glue and fasten as appropriate to your material.
  • Fit a full back (6–9 mm), glued in a rabbet/dado or fastened over perimeter cleats.
  1. Square the carcass using the back.
  • Measure diagonals; a difference ≤2–3 mm is acceptable for most built-ins. Adjust and clamp until square before fastening the back fully.

Why full backs? They dramatically reduce racking and serve as a built-in squaring jig—a common best practice in cabinetry.

Checkpoint: Each module is square (diagonals within 2–3 mm), rigid, and ready to set.

Step 4 — Set, align, and anchor modules

  1. Place modules on the plinth.
  • Start from a corner or a plumblest wall. Shim to plumb in both axes.
  1. Tie modules together.
  • Clamp faces flush. Pre-drill and screw through side panels in concealed zones (behind hinges, slide spacers, or shelf lines).
  1. Anchor to structure.
  1. Re-check for plumb/level.
  • Verify face plane alignment and door opening squareness before moving on.

Checkpoint: All modules are tied face-flush, plumb, and securely anchored; openings are square.

Step 5 — Install internals (rails, drawers, shelves)

  1. Hanging rails.
  • For 15×30 mm oval or 25–32 mm round rods, use robust end sockets. Add a center support for spans beyond 900–1000 mm to minimize deflection. Published per-length static ratings are rarely disclosed; as a context reference, pull-down mechanisms list 26–33 lb capacities over ~890–1210 mm spans (see Häfele’s 26 lb model and 33 lb model), but these are not direct proxies for fixed rods. When in doubt, add mid supports.
  1. Drawer boxes and slides.
  • Verify the drawer box width/height/length per your runner’s spec before cutting.
  • For undermount systems, follow the manufacturer’s opening-minus rule (e.g., many Blum runners require inside drawer width = opening minus 42 mm). Check the Blum MOVENTO tech sheet or TANDEM install sheet for the exact figures.
  • Install cabinet members level and coplanar. Use spacers and a long level to ensure parallelism to within 1 mm across the slide length.
  1. Adjustable shelves.
  • Drill 5 mm shelf-pin holes at 32 mm centers using a jig if possible. Keep pin heights consistent across bays for a unified look.

Checkpoint: Hanging rails are secure with mid supports as needed; drawers slide smoothly and close softly; shelves sit level at consistent heights.

Step 6 — Fit doors and fronts

  1. Bore hinge cups.
  • Use a 35 mm Forstner bit with a depth stop. Typical cup depth for soft-close hinges is around 11.5 mm; confirm in your hinge’s manual.
  • Common boring distance (B) from the door edge is 3–6 mm; 3–5 mm is typical for standard overlays on frameless carcasses. See the Blum concealed hinges technical document (PDF) for drilling charts.
  1. Mount plates and hang doors.
  • If you built with the 32 mm system, position plates using those holes. Start with 0 mm plates for standard overlay on frameless, unless your design calls for another height.
  1. Adjust for consistent reveals.
  • Use the hinge cams to dial in side, height, and depth. For many 110° hinges, expect side ±2 mm, height ±2 mm (via plate), and depth around +3/–2 mm; see the Blum hinge systems overview.
  • Aim for 2–3 mm gaps uniformly around each door and between pairs.
  • On very light doors, consider switching off integrated BLUMOTION on the hinge to prevent bounce-back (refer to the model’s instructions).
  1. Sliding door note.
  • Ensure tracks are straight and level; stiff door panels help avoid racking. Follow your system’s guide for overlap and soft-close catches.

Checkpoint: Doors open and close smoothly, with even 2–3 mm reveals and no rubbing through the full swing.

Step 7 — Scribe fillers and trims

  1. Cut fillers to rough size and clamp in position.
  • Leave enough width to scribe to the wall or ceiling.
  1. Transfer the wall profile.
  • Use a compass or scribe block to trace the wall onto the filler. Back-bevel your cut slightly to ease fitting.
  1. Cut and test-fit.
  • Trim along the scribe line with a track saw or jigsaw and tune with a block plane or oscillating tool. Repeat test fits until gaps are ≤2 mm before caulk/paint.
  1. Fix and finish.

Checkpoint: Fillers meet walls/ceiling cleanly; final paintable gaps are ≤2 mm and visually crisp.

Step 8 — Finishing touches

  • Install handles/knobs using a drilling jig for consistent positioning.
  • Add door bumpers. If planned, install LED strips into aluminum channels with diffusers; coordinate wiring and power with a licensed electrician.
  • Final cleanup and dust removal, especially inside drawers and tracks.

Tools and Materials Stack (with procurement options)

Hardware systems

Factory-prepped panels and kits

  • If you want pre-cut, edgebanded, and pre-drilled panels packaged by room/module, consider ordering from ChinaBestBuy. Disclosure: ChinaBestBuy is our product.

Alternatives (neutral criteria: scope, lead time, customization, pricing)

  • Local building suppliers or big-box stores for sheet goods and basic hardware (immediate availability; limited customization).
  • Branded hardware distributors (e.g., Häfele) for complete hardware ecosystems and technical support; see Häfele’s drawer slides assortment.
  • Local cabinet shops for custom cutting, edge banding, and drilling when you need quick-turn, bespoke parts.

Keep procurement balanced: match your tolerance needs, schedule, and budget.

Troubleshooting — symptoms, causes, fixes

Doors rub or uneven gaps

  • Likely causes: Carcass out of square; hinge plate height mismatch; hinge cam misadjusted.
  • Fix: Recheck carcass diagonals; adjust hinge cams (side/depth/height); shim plates to align.

Drawer binds or won’t close softly

  • Likely causes: Slides not coplanar or parallel; incorrect drawer width for runner spec; carcass racked.
  • Fix: Verify slide heights and parallelism with spacers; re-square opening; confirm the drawer box width per runner spec.

Hanging rail sagging

  • Likely causes: Span too wide; inadequate sockets; lightweight tube.
  • Fix: Add a mid support; upgrade to a stiffer rod; use stronger end sockets.

Plinth feels springy or creaks

  • Likely causes: Shims not locked; insufficient anchoring; spans without blocking.
  • Fix: Add blocking, re-shim and screw off to floor/wall where permitted; confirm level again.

Hinge cup blow-through

  • Likely causes: Cup depth too deep; thin door; no depth stop.
  • Fix: Use a depth stop; confirm cup depth per hinge spec (~11.5 mm typical for many soft-close models); test on scrap.

Post-install QC checklist (target tolerances)

Use these practical, field-tested targets unless your project specs state otherwise.

  • Plumb/level: Within 1 mm per 1 m; overall deviation ≤3 mm.
  • Carcass squareness: Diagonals differ ≤2–3 mm per module/opening.
  • Door reveals: 2–3 mm consistently; no rub through full swing.
  • Drawer action: Smooth, full extension, soft-close engages; face gaps uniform.
  • Hanging rails: Deflection <3 mm under expected load; mid supports installed beyond 900–1000 mm.
  • Fixing: Modules tied to studs/masonry; anti-tip installed and secure.
  • Finish: Fillers tight; caulk neat; edges sealed; hardware aligned and tight.

Pro move: Keep 2–3 mm plastic spacers or feeler gauges in your pouch to set reveals quickly and verify consistency.

Bill of materials (example specs)

  • Sheet goods: 18 mm melamine-faced chipboard (E1/TSCA Title VI compliant) for carcasses; 6–9 mm melamine back. Alternatively 18 mm birch-core plywood for carcass and 18–22 mm MDF for painted doors. See the EPA TSCA Title VI limits and FAQs for U.S. compliance context.
  • Hinges: 110° soft-close concealed hinges (35 mm cup). Refer to the Blum concealed hinges technical document (PDF) for cup depth and boring distances.
  • Drawer runners: Undermount, full-extension soft-close; size to your cabinet depth. Check the Blum MOVENTO tech sheet or TANDEM install data for load ratings and drawer width formulas.
  • Closet rods and sockets: 15×30 mm oval or 25–32 mm round; select steel tubes with robust sockets; plan mid supports for spans >900–1000 mm. Capacity varies by product; consult your supplier if you need engineered values.
  • Fasteners: Confirmat screws (e.g., 7×50 mm) for MFC; cabinet screws for wall anchoring; appropriate masonry anchors where needed.
  • Anti-tip: Rated anti-tip brackets/straps fixed to studs. See CPSC guidance on anchoring furniture.
  • Fillers/trims: Matching 18 mm material or paint-grade; caulk compatible with your finish.

Cut-list template (printable)

Project: Built-in Wardrobe — Cut List

Module ID: ___________   Bay Width: ______ mm   Depth: ______ mm   Height: ______ mm
Material: [MFC | Plywood | MDF]  Thickness: 18 mm   Edge band: [Yes/No, edges: ____]

Panels (mm):
- Left side:     W ______  H ______  Qty 1
- Right side:    W ______  H ______  Qty 1
- Top:           W ______  D ______  Qty 1
- Bottom:        W ______  D ______  Qty 1
- Fixed shelf(s):W ______  D ______  Qty __
- Partition(s):  W ______  H ______  Qty __
- Back panel:    W ______  H ______  t [6/9]  Qty 1

Doors/Fronts (mm):
- Door/Front:    W ______  H ______  t [18–22]  Qty __
- Edge banding notes: ______________________________

Drawers (per box, mm):
- Side (L/R):    L ______  H ______  t ______  Qty 2
- Front/Back:    L ______  H ______  t ______  Qty 2
- Bottom:        W ______  D ______  t [6/9]   Qty 1
- Runner model/length: _____________________________

Hardware Schedule:
- Hinges: ______ pcs (110° soft-close, plate height ___)
- Slides: ______ sets (model __________, length ___)
- Shelf pins: ______ pcs (5 mm)
- Hanging rail: Length(s) ______; Sockets: ______ pcs; Mid supports: ______ pcs
- Anti-tip brackets: ______ pcs
- Screws/anchors: __________________________________

Notes:
- 32 mm hole pattern? [Yes/No]  Drilling pattern attached? [Yes/No]
- Finish/edge band spec: ____________________________

Pro tips that save time and headaches

  • Standardize module widths (400/450/600 mm) and door sizes to simplify ordering and drilling patterns.
  • Use parametric spreadsheets or CAD to auto-generate cut lists and edging counts.
  • Order panels pre-edgebanded and pre-drilled (32 mm) to reduce site labor and limit error stacking.
  • Keep a reveal gauge (2–3 mm spacers) handy to set doors and drawer fronts quickly.
  • Follow a consistent install sequence: plinth → corner bay → adjacent bays → internals → doors → fillers.

Next steps

If you’re managing multiple rooms or need factory-prepped consistency, you can source pre-cut, edgebanded, and labeled panel kits with matching hardware through ChinaBestBuy or comparable suppliers; provide shop drawings with drilling patterns and finish codes for smooth QC. Balance that option against local-shop or self-fabrication to match your schedule and budget.

Pro Tip: Take your time on the plinth and squaring checks—those two steps make everything else go faster.

Ready to Transform Your Space?

Partner with ChinaBestBuy for comprehensive building solutions that combine innovative design with premium materials and expert craftsmanship.

Contact Us for Free Consultation